Family Travel

A Taste of the Real Mexico
One Family’s Authentic Vacations in Zihuatanejo

By Sarah Brody Webb

“Mom, it’s time to go see the crocodile!” Spencer whispers urgently in my ear as he tugs at the covers. “Okay,” I whisper, rolling out of bed and throwing on a pair of shorts and a t-shirt. “Do I need my sandals?” he asks. “Nah, you’re okay,” I tell him.

We slide open the glass doors of the room and tiptoe barefoot into the sunshine, leaving my husband and daughter sleeping. The air is cool, though not so cold that you need a sweatshirt; just right for a morning stroll along the beach in search of a large reptile. Two steps across the patio and our feet sink blissfully into soft white sand. I pause for a moment to gaze at the gleaming blue of the Pacific lapping gently against the graceful curve of the beach.

We are on our first trip to Zihuatanejo, a small village nestled in a bay on the Pacific coast of Mexico about 150 miles north of Acapulco. Our hotel, though basic, is charming and clean, and most importantly, situated on Zihuatanejo’s most beautiful beach. La Ropa, a mile-long crescent of creamy white sand fringed with palm trees and dotted with restaurants, small hotels and bungalows, is the kind of beach that inspires daydreams.

“Come ON, mom!” Spencer calls over his shoulder as he skips ahead of me, zigzagging along the surf, daring it to touch his toes. We’ve been told that the croc is most often spotted in the morning, before the midday heat sends him slithering back into the water, and there’s no time to lose. It’s about a mile to the southern tip of the beach, where a freshwater stream joins the ocean, and where, if the timing is right, you can get uncomfortably close to a large crocodile sunning itself in the sand. Or so we’ve heard.

Two Mexican girls approach us on the beach. “Que bonito blondino!” they shriek when they spot my tow-headed boy running toward them (years later, when we return with our third child – a redhead – the cries of “pelirroja!” are even louder.) “What is your name?” they ask, kneeling down beside him, touching his hair and cheeks. Spencer, 3 years old, feels no embarrassment; only impatience at being delayed in our mission. After a kiss on the cheek from each girl, we are on our way again.

I breathe a small sigh of relief when we reach the end of the beach and there’s no sign of the crocodile, especially when I see nothing but a piece of rope cordoning off the area where the crocs usually hang out. Spencer is disappointed, however, so we agree to try again tomorrow.

We return from our morning adventures to find Tim and Samantha sitting barefoot at a table under the thatched roof of our hotel’s restaurant. Samantha, almost 1, is gleefully dunking a piece of papaya into a bowl of yogurt.

A Typical Zihuatanejo Daily ‘Schedule’

After breakfast we park ourselves in the sand under one of the hotel’s beachfront palapas, and spend the morning lounging on the beach. The surf is gentle enough for the children to play in but still strong enough for some good bodysurfing when the tide rolls in.

When hunger strikes again, we wander down the beach in search of fish tacos and our favorite “salsa fresca.” There’s still no need for shoes, as the tables are set in the sand and the atmosphere at the beachside restaurants is decidedly laid-back. While we wait for our food to arrive, a band of strolling musicians stops at our table and strikes up a lively rendition of “La Cucaracha.” It’s a little cheesy, but Spencer and Samantha are entranced, so we nod to indicate that we’ll give them some pesos in exchange for the diversion. The women working at the restaurant smile and whisper as they watch the kids, and one of them gestures to ask if she can hold the baby. Samantha beams as she is passed among them, enchanted by their lilting Spanish and completely at ease in their substantial arms.

In the late afternoon, after some quiet time in the room (a nap for Samantha and an episode of “Dragon Tales” en Espanol for Spencer), we load up the baby backpack and head toward the paved walkway that begins at the northern end of La Ropa beach and winds along the rocky coast into town.

The town center bustles with activity. Children chase each other across the square while their parents relax on park benches, chatting and enjoying a beer or an ice cream cone. Older kids are skateboarding and playing basketball, street vendors roam the square touting their goods, and a trio of wandering minstrels belts out Mexican ballads above the din of the crowd.

“It’s a fair!” Spencer shouts with glee. Actually, it’s just a regular night in El Centro, the heart of Zihuatanejo. We look around and realize that the locals definitely outnumber the tourists, and yet we feel just as much a part of the festivities as the residents. A young boy kicks a soccer ball towards Spencer, and says something in Spanish. It doesn’t matter that Spencer’s vocabulary is limited to “hola” and “gracias” – he passes the ball back, and the game is on.

After a brief scrimmage, we make our way down “paseo del pescador” (fisherman’s walk), a cobblestone path along the municipal beachfront where the local fishermen are busy unloading their day’s catch. It gives new meaning to the word fresh when you see the fish being carried off the boat and into the restaurant! Not quite ready for dinner, we wander up and down the rows of stalls selling kitschy souvenirs and t-shirts, silver jewelry and brightly painted pottery.

An array of dining possibilities confronts us when we tire of shopping, from upscale beachfront restaurants to small cafes where the menus are only in Spanish, to street vendors selling tamales and tacos. Enticed by the smell of barbecue, we follow our noses to an open-air grill where chicken and ribs are sizzling and the tables are filled with locals. We gorge ourselves on chicken with beans, rice and freshly made tortillas, and Spencer announces that it’s the best dinner he’s ever had. Stuffed, happy and exhausted, we catch a taxi back to the hotel and fall into bed.

An Annual Family Tradition

Our love affair with Zihuatanejo (pronounced “see-wat-an-ay-ho”) began on that first visit six years ago, and our family has returned each year since. Perhaps it’s because it offers everything we’re looking for in a family vacation – sun, beach, good food, interesting people, a taste of another country’s culture and quality time together. Or perhaps it’s because we cherish the idea of creating a tradition that our children will remember fondly when they’re older. But something keeps drawing us back to Zihuatanejo each year.

“Zee-what-a-where?” people ask when I tell them where we’re going, which pleases me because I secretly hope that not too many people will discover our little Mexican paradise. Although Zihua, as it is affectionately called by the town’s residents, has become more crowded over the years, it still remains less of a destination than many other resort areas along the Mexican Riviera, particularly its glitzy neighbor to the north, Ixtapa.

In the late 60s, the Mexican government saw an opportunity to develop tourism along this beautiful stretch of the Pacific coast, and targeted the little fishing village of Zihuatanejo for development. But the locals would have none of it, refusing to have their views of the bay compromised by high rises. So the board of tourism took their plans elsewhere, and the result is Ixtapa, a two-mile stretch of high-rises and shopping malls built from scratch on a razed coconut plantation.

To this day, Zihuatanejo remains gloriously free of high rises, thanks to a city code forbidding buildings from reaching more than four stories. And despite the growth in tourism that occurred naturally after the development of Ixtapa, Zihua has maintained much of its authentic character and old world charm.

People often ask us if Zihuatanejo is “family-friendly.” If that means chicken nuggets on every menu, organized kids’ club activities, giant pools with water slides and chain restaurants, then the answer is, thankfully, no. But in our experience, Zihuatanejo is one of the most family-friendly places we’ve ever visited. The people are warm and friendly, and they welcome children with open arms – literally.

And, yes, we have seen the crocodile on several occasions since that first failed attempt. The crocodile hike has become a part of our morning routine during our visits, a great way to get some exercise and add a little excitement to our otherwise lazy days.

On our last visit I was comforted to see that the rope had been replaced by a six-foot fence.

If You Go

Getting There

Alaska Airlines operates the most direct route from PDX to Zihuatanejo (airport code: ZIH) with daily flights through San Francisco or Los Angeles; prices average $500 roundtrip. Other major airlines fly daily, though most will require two or more connections.

Where to Stay

Note that most hotels drop their rates significantly during low season, which typically starts mid-April and runs through mid-November.

  • Catalina Beach Resort, Playa La Ropa; www.catalina-beach-resort.com/. High season room rates $103 to $188.
  • Hotel Sotavento, Playa La Ropa; www.beachresortsotavento.com/. High season room rates $70 to $130.
  • The Catalina and Sotavento, formerly sister hotels, are the closest things to high rises in Zihuatanejo, although they are artfully built into the cliffside so that they don’t tower over the beach. Both hotels offer rooms with private terraces and spectacular views, private beach and pools. Keep in mind, though, that with the stunning views come a lot of steps down to the beach – no elevators here!
  • Villa Mexicana, Playa La Ropa; www.hotelvillamexicana.com.mx/. This small hotel is our favorite for families with young children; private beach, two small pools and a remarkably good restaurant. Rates start at $115.
  • Hotel Irma, Playa Madera; www.hotelirma.com. Located on the beach, a 10-minute walk to town. Some rooms with private balconies. Two pools, restaurant and bar. Rooms start at $80.
  • Hotel Brisas Del Mar, Playa Maderal www.hotelbrisasdelmar.com. Small hotel located on the beach, 10 minutes from town. All rooms have private terraces with ocean views. Pool and restaurant. Rooms start at $134.
  • There are also numerous possibilities for rentals, from thatched roof bungalows to grand villas. Check out www.zihuatanejo.net/rentals.html.

What to Do In (and Near) Zihuatanejo

Although many of our days are spent lazing on the beach or by the pool, there are plenty of opportunities for more active adventures, such as snorkeling, surfing, sport fishing, parasailing and horseback riding. Most hotels have information readily available and will organize the activities for you.

As for nightlife, there are several hotels that offer live music, and a wonderful blues club just up the hill from town. Zihuatanejo also boasts several top-notch restaurants serving haute Mexican cuisine. We usually try to fit in at least one date night on our trips, enlisting the help of our hotel concierge to find a babysitter. Usually a staff member, who is already familiar to (and with) the kids, will return in the evening to stay with them in the room for a very reasonable rate.

There are also a number of fun day trip excursions.

Troncones, a small fishing village about 20 miles north of Zihuatanejo, offers miles of unspoiled white sand beaches. Often described as a “surfer’s paradise,” the town is still relatively undeveloped, with dirt roads and a few small cafes.

Playa Las Gatas, a tropical lagoon of crystalline water created by a rock breakwater, is great for young snorkelers. The beach is separated from Playa La Ropa’s southern tip by a rocky cliff and is accessible via a short rock-clambering hike (wear proper shoes!) or by water taxi from town.

Ixtapa Island, about a 15-minute boat ride from Zihuatanejo, has four beaches and offers excellent snorkeling and diving. The island also contains a wildlife refuge, with several species of exotic birds, armadillos, iguanas and deer.

Some Things to Know Before You Go

  • Note that as of January 2007, a valid passport is required for travel by air between the United States and Mexico.
  • Additional vaccinations may be recommended for travel to Mexico, such as Hepatitis A and B. Check with your health care provider four to six weeks before your trip.
  • Rainy season is from June to September; the rest of the year is just about perfect, with average daily highs in the 80s and lots of SUN, so be sure to pack plenty of high-SPF sunscreen, hats and UPF-rated clothing, if you have it.
  • Remember to drink bottled water only. Most hotels and restaurants in tourist areas will provide bottled water in your room; use it for brushing teeth as well. Blended drinks made with ice are fine, since most restaurants in tourist areas use purified water to make the ice. If you’re unsure, feel free to ask.

Sarah Brody Webb is a Portland freelance writer and mother.

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