Out and About

Riding the Rails in Hood River

By Marie Sherlock

This summer my kids, my husband and I found ourselves roaming the streets of Hood River in the company of droves of “boardheads.” But we weren’t in Hood River to windsurf and it wasn’t time for our annual apple purchasing trip. We were there to experience the Mt. Hood Railroad.

For those unfamiliar with this regional treasure, the Mt. Hood Railroad consists of a vintage excursion train and a 1940’s era dinner train along with a 22 mile stretch of track starting in Hood River and ending in Parkdale. The railroad was built in 1906 and served for many years primarily as a freight train, hauling lumber and fruit between the towns of Parkdale, Dee, Odell and Hood River.

In 1987 a consortium of buyers purchased the shortline from Union Pacific and, while the railroad continued to be used to haul freight, it also began its current work as an excursion and dinner train line. It is now a designated National Historic Site – and one of Hood River’s foremost tourist attractions.

My family has long anticipated a trip on the Mt. Hood Railroad and decided that a “special event” excursion would be our best bet. The “special event” in our case was a mock train robbery, perfect for my two rowdy boys.

We arrive shortly before departure time and check in at the depot. The cashier hands us our tickets and presents the boys with $70,000 in Mt. Hood Railroad “funny money.” “For the robbery,” she explains, with a smile.

As we’re walking toward the train, I ask my younger son if he’s looking forward to the train robbery. “Let’s not talk about it,” he says. “Then we can pretend we don’t know about it and we’ll be surprised!”

As it turns out we nearly do forget about the robbery. Although we expected to spend our four-plus hour journey in our assigned seats gazing at the passing countryside, we’re encouraged by a faceless voice over the intercom system to explore. And we do.

Four passenger cars, one with concessions, an open-air car and a red caboose are all available for us to roam. First we head toward the front of the train and check out the engine and the open-air car where the wind dominates and conversation is nearly impossible.

We backtrack and find ourselves in the caboose where the “cupola” – an eight seat second-story lookout – is located. We climb the metal ladders for a look, gaining nearly a bird’s eye view of the passing orchards and farms.

On our way back to our seats my husband and I buy coffee in the concession car. Then we relax, enjoy the scenery and listen to intermittent history lessons – again from the intercom voice – about the railroad and the sights we’re passing by. For example, we’re told that the railroad was built in 1906 by lumberman David Eccles and served both his lumber company in Dee and the fruit growers in the area as well as transporting passengers. While the cars we’re sitting in aren’t the same ones used back then, they are vintage turn-of-the-century Pullman coaches.

The authenticity of the cars is obvious, both in their appearance and by the noticeably bumpy ride. I find this choppiness – along with the click-clacking of the tracks – comforting. My older son obviously does too; he naps with his head in my lap and I think that this could easily be a scene from ninety years ago.

We arrive in Parkdale at about 11:30 where we have an hour to eat lunch, visit the Hutson Museum, shop or just hang out. A barbecue is available to passengers and we munch on chicken and corn on the cob while a country duo serenade us. It’s a very pleasant lay over.

The train’s whistle warns us to board and, as we climb on, we’re reminded that a train robbery has yet to occur when a country lady dressed in a long dress, shawl and hat boards our car and proceeds to make small talk with the passengers. She tells us that some varmints have escaped from the local jail but that her boyfriend, the sheriff, will take care of them. The fun is about to begin.

By this time my boys are anxiously awaiting the arrival of the “bad guys.” Soon they barge in, two realistic-looking outlaws, dressed in black and brandishing cap guns. They demand our “cash” which we gladly give them and then one makes the anachronistic request “got any McDonald’s coupons?” We’re laughing hysterically. They’ve got their lines down pat.

Later the sheriff arrives to save the day, deputizing my boys and others. My sons grab the bananas that they’ve brought along as snacks and aim them at the bandits. Shots are fired – but the desperadoes escape. (It’s time for them to perform in the next car.)

While my kids later claim that the robbery was indeed the highlight of the trip for them, my husband and I surprise each other by both saying that our favorite part of the ride was the short time we spent standing at the very back of the caboose, watching the track, the trees and the farms disappear on the horizon.

My husband comments succinctly “some people are train people; some aren’t.” We apparently are.

If You Go:

Location: Mt. Hood Railroad is located in Hood River, just an hour’s drive up I-84 from Portland. Take Exit 63 and follow the signs. You can’t miss it.
Prices: The Western Train Robbery excursion costs $27 for adults, $17 for kids ages 2 to 12 and takes place one weekend each month from May through October. Mt. Hood Railroad offers numerous other special events – like A Day Out With Thomas (the Tank Engine), the Polar Express, Christmas Tree trains and others – as well as their regular excursions.
Contact info: Visit www.mthoodrr.com or call 800-872-4661 for more information.

Marie Sherlock is the editor of Metro Parent.

This article first appeared in the September 1999 issue of Portland Parent when Sherlock’s sons were 10 and 8 (they’re now teenagers). The Western Train Robbery excursion is still offered at Mt. Hood Railroad and remains immensely popular. Beginning this year, the railroad offers a Chuck Wagon lunch during the layover and the robbery takes place on the return trip with a shoot-out skit as the train approaches Hood River.

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